Food & Drink
Österlen food guide
Österlen, on the southernmost tip of Sweden’s southernmost county, Skåne, is like one long continuous revivalist meeting for all those who like driving around looking for all the colorful, characterful restaurants you can find in the countryside. The landscape has been compared, somewhat simply, to a Scandinavian version of Provence or Tuscany, and it certainly offers coastline, forests, open meadows, and great experiences. And the local chefs and restaurateurs seem to love harvesting what nature provides. One of those who has never needed to travel far is recent Michelin star recipient, Daniel Berlin. At his restaurant of the same name in tiny Skåne Tranås outside Tomelilla, he has fruit, vegetables, and herbs that he can pick from almost right outside his kitchen window.
Another chef who is putting Österlen on the map as a culinary destination is Daniel Müllern. Now with the most appearances in the Swedish Chef of the Year competition – he’s made the semi-finals seven times and reached the final for the last two years – he’s the gastronomic leader at Ystad Saltsjöbad.
“I grew up in Österlen and I’ve been working here for the last 12 years,” Müllern says. “These are my roots, and I have everything close at hand here: from the vegetable grower to the lamb breeder. The chefs here all know where our ingredients actually come from. I’m a little more Francophile in my cooking than Daniel Berlin, so although I work primarily with locally grown produce, I can still use truffles and foie gras sometimes,” he laughs.
With 117 years of history, Ystad Saltsjöbad has the most wonderful location right by the shores of the Baltic Sea. The perfect place for a spa and hotel, thanks to its proximity to Danish and Swedish cities, but nowadays also noted for its cuisine. That’s all thanks to Chef of the Year veteran Daniel Müllern. Choose between the traditional seafood restaurant, the French-American bistro, or the terrace just ten meters from the sea.
Saltsjöbadsvägen 15, Ystad
A couple of young Stockholmers who left the big city for the plains of Skåne have been receiving plenty of praise, including in the New York Times. In their little grove among the rugged slopes of Brösarp, the duo have managed to weave together a farmhouse hotel, a wild-fermenting micro-bakery, and of course a summer restaurant. They have a passion for the very best that Österlen has to offer.
Bengtemöllevägen 7, Brösarp
Just north of Kivik is the romantic Drakamöllan Gårdshotell, which, with its beautifully thatched roof and its enclosed courtyard, is the epitome of the Skåne countryside. The food is something else. Don’t miss Drakamöllan’s dishes using local asparagus, lamb, and mushrooms.
Drakamöllans väg 108, Degeberga
Restaurateurs Emma and Martin Sjöstrand have experience from gourmet restaurants such as Sjömagasinet in Gothenburg and Mathias Dahlgren in Stockholm. Now they serve up their dishes on the bridge between Beddinge and Abbekås. A big plus is the rich menu of organic wines, which are best enjoyed as you watch the sun set over the sea.
Hörte Hamn, Dybäck, Skivarp
His Michelin star no doubt increases the pressure to get a coveted table at the new shining star of cuisine in Skåne, and Scandinavia, Daniel Berlin. He himself, though, just carries on in the kitchen as if nothing has happened. And his new menus are closer to nature than ever before.
Diligensvägen 21, Skåne Tranås
Right in the middle of Skåne’s Bonnabygden, near Smyghuk, is Hedmans krog in a converted Skåne farmhouse dating from the early 19th century. Niklas and Max promise seasonal ingredients – what else – and take great trouble to match the food with the very affordable wines they import themselves, mainly from France
Västra torps byaväg 101, Klagstorp
Sandskogens Värdshus was an old summer house from 1899 that had stood empty and was about to fall into decay. Renaming it Villa Strandvägen, Daniel Müllern will act as both head chef and co-owner, just a few hundred meters from his Ystad Saltsjöbad, over which he will still keep a watchful eye. He wants to make Villa Strandvägen a food destination by cultivating his own local ingredients and staying open all year round.
Villa Strandvägen opens June 15.
Strandvägen 1, Ystad
Text: Lars Collin
Find Österlen's culinary hot spots in the map below:
Published: April 11, 2016